Mapping the invisible

Fragrance knowledge,
connected to its sources.

Allergens, supplier documents, development records

ORIZOMIA is Daniele Saro’s independent research and advisory project in data and AI for perfumery and beauty. It develops systems to record olfactory knowledge, connect its sources and keep it available for further work.

The manifesto

How much of what the industry learns becomes durable knowledge — and how much evaporates with each “finished” fragrance?

The manifesto sets out the thinking behind the project: how knowledge of scent can be shared, questioned and taken up again.

Read the manifesto

The project in numbers

Start with a conversation.

Tell us where your documents slow you down. We answer with a concrete next step, not a pitch.

contact@orizomia.com

Manifesto.

To speak of a fragrance is often to be taken somewhere else: to the green scent of a tomato leaf lingering on the fingers, the ink on a freshly printed page, the wood holding the silence of a closed drawer. These associations bring together a material, a body that has learned to sense it, and the words through which it is recognised. Experience gives substance to language; language, in turn, can reveal a difference that had gone unnoticed.

For those whose work involves smell, carrying this knowledge forward is a practical necessity. Descriptions, assessments and references guide the development of a product, the choice of a material, the passing on of expertise. Yet when they remain scattered across archives, documents and individual experience, finding them and understanding their significance means doing part of the work again.

ORIZOMIA is developing a knowledge system that connects words, materials, sources and practices. Keeping information tied to its origins and context makes it possible to retrieve it, compare it and consider what it offers in response to a new question. What has been learned can then retain its value beyond the time and the people that shaped it.

Perfumery is the first setting in which to develop professional tools and put them to the test in everyday practice: making information easier to find, helping people bring different kinds of expertise into dialogue, and supporting training. Their value to organisations will be measured in time saved, in the ease with which knowledge can be reused, and in how readily it passes between people and projects.

From these needs comes the prospect of services through which businesses can access, consult and compare knowledge. Their economic sustainability will depend on the benefit they bring to those who use them. They will be built on the quality of the connections between information, the traceability of sources and testing in practice. The tools must open this body of knowledge to exploration while keeping the basis of each answer clear, along with the limits of what it can support.

ORIZOMIA is still taking shape, and the next step is to bring the system into professional practice, where its usefulness can be tested and its tools refined through experience. The horizon extends to anyone who needs to recognise, describe and discuss an odour. For each, the true test will lie in the relationship between what the system helps them understand and what they can then observe, compare and choose.

That relationship becomes tangible in the return to the material itself: a well-crafted description invites comparison, brings a new nuance into focus, prompts a question. The work begins again there, where the familiar stirs curiosity once more.

Infrastructure

Systems that connect records, language and evidence.

Four systems address different parts of the work: naming materials, reading supplier documents, consulting the literature and examining development records.

01Operational

Olfactory database

Working instance; access by arrangement.

The olfactory database connects commercial, chemical and regulatory ingredient names across three languages. The versioned relational database includes semantic and chemical embeddings.

Conceptual view

It maintains a reference list of the 81 fragrance allergens subject to labelling in Annex III to Regulation (EU) 1223/2009, as amended by (EU) 2023/1545. Every design decision is documented.

Inspect a recorded example

02Operational

Document extraction engine

The document extraction engine turns supplier safety data sheets, allergen declarations and IFRA certificates into structured data. Each field remains linked to its source passage.

Conceptual view

Deterministic validators check CAS numbers, composition sums and allergens against the closed EU list. The output identifies what needs review; it never declares compliance.

Related research: AI and fragrance compliance (WP13)

03Internal use

Literature retrieval

Used internally, the retrieval engine consults the olfactory literature while tracking usage rights for each source.

Conceptual view

Answers use only sources the user is entitled to consult. The engine refuses to answer when the evidence is insufficient.

Related research: shared references (WP09)

04In service

CPA · Process observability

Cycle Project Analysis examines a development project through its documents. This quantitative diagnostic tracks repeated versions, reopened decisions and informal handovers that leave no trace.

Conceptual view

It produces two independent indices for documentary expansion and the informal load of decisions taken outside the documents, with a technical report and an executive summary. A front-end prototype shows the planned workspace.

Related research: coordination costs (WP03)

Design principles

Alongside these tools, ORIZOMIA’s research proposes an eight-layer framework for describing and governing olfactory knowledge.

  1. We do not need client formulas and never add them to the database. We process documents shared for an engagement in a segregated environment and return or delete them when it ends.

  2. Sources without a licence remain bibliographic references only.

  3. Artificial intelligence proposes; a human confirms. Every automated step keeps an audit trail.

  4. No compliance verdicts — review signals only. Regulatory responsibility stays where the law places it.

Ask about a system.

Name the system you are interested in and the question you would like to explore.

contact@orizomia.com

Olfactory database

How a descriptor is recorded.

ORIZOMIA records descriptors through weighted sensory axes, with links to materials and regulatory entries.

Working instance; access by arrangement.Availability and limits

Recorded examples

3 descriptors / weighted axes

Coding weights, not measurements of perceived intensity.

equiv · identityrelated · contribution

gourmand — equiv:H20@0.6; related:H05@0.4
  • Sensory axis: H20 Edibility; Weight: +0.60; Role: equiv
  • Sensory axis: H05 Sweetness; Weight: +0.40; Role: related

Two axes, both positive — a simple decomposition.

Weights are versioned and change as curation advances

Reading the record

Read the axes.

equiv
Defines identity
related
Contributes without defining identity
Negative
A quality required to be low

These examples show how descriptors are coded in the operational database. Each descriptor is recorded as weighted links to sensory axes, with weights between −1 and 1.

The H/S/P identifiers group the axes used in these records. H includes edibility, sweetness, temperature, citric character, salinity and diffusion. S includes perceptual qualities such as wateriness; P includes spatial qualities such as airiness.

Across three languages

Recording descriptors across three languages.

Fresh, soapy, leathery and gourmand describe smell, but their meaning depends on context. The same word can mean different things across houses, or in a brief, a panel report and a safety dossier. Translation between English, Italian and French requires attention to those contexts. The sections below explain the structure, its current coverage and the rules governing its use.

Each descriptor is recorded in English, Italian and French, with a database row naming its source and the date of its last verification.

fresco (it), fresh (en) and frais (fr) are surface forms of one canonical descriptor. They map onto an overlapping subset of axes: H06 temperature, H13 citric, S05 wateriness. The word changes at the border; the axes do not.

Work to harmonise the weights across the three languages is still in progress.

  • Italianfresco
  • Englishfresh
  • Frenchfrais

What is in it

Language & definition

  • 1,328Terms in the trilingual lexicon
  • 686Terms with a definition in their own language and an active vector
  • 3Working languages · en · it · fr

Perceptual structure

  • 141Core perceptual descriptors with canonical English forms
  • 103Core descriptors already represented by a weighted formula
  • 202Materials

Regulatory references & history

  • 81Allergen entries under Annex III of Regulation (EU) 1223/2009
  • 30Regulatory acts, each bound to its primary source
  • 189Versioned schema migrations

The allergen layer carries 135 INCI names and 193 constraints in four rule families, covering the whole annex. Each of the 30 regulatory acts records the date it was last checked.

Measured on the working database, August–September 2026

Current coverage

Coverage and reference checks.

  • The regulatory layer is complete; the lexicon is about half defined.

    The remaining terms are recorded but not yet defined.

  • The canonical core converges with two independent references.

    The 141 canonical descriptors overlap with two external reference sets developed independently of this one. That convergence is a reason to review and prioritise the core rather than expand it.

Governance

Every record carries its history.

  • Source and date

    Every row names its source and the date it was verified. A statement with no source does not enter the database.

  • Usage rights

    No source is used without an explicit licence decision on record. Sources whose terms do not permit use are marked and excluded, not quietly ingested; licences incompatible with the project are refused by a constraint in the schema itself.

  • Human review

    The system flags matters for review; it does not determine regulatory obligations. The decision remains with the person responsible for it.

  • Client formulas

    We do not need client formulas and never add them to the database.

  • Decision history

    Every change enters an append-only trail. The architecture is documented in 205 decision records, including reversals of earlier decisions.

Limits

What it is not.

  • Not the largest odour dataset.

    Larger public collections of molecules, ingredients and descriptors exist. The contribution here is the set of typed relations connecting them.

  • Not a regulatory calculation engine.

    No compliance verdicts, certification or regulatory calculations. The output identifies a source passage and a date; it makes no decision.

  • Not generally available.

    It runs as a working instance, not a product: no public interface, no hosted service, no self-serve access.

  • Not externally reviewed.

    No peer review, no outside audit. Where a result rests on an internal check rather than an independent one, the documentation says so.

Who it is for

Who the database can help.

  • Houses and suppliers

    Whose supplier documentation and internal vocabulary do not line up.

  • Evaluation panels

    That need one word to mean one thing across sessions and across languages.

  • Regulatory teams

    That need a statement traceable to the source it came from and the date it was checked.

  • Researchers on olfactory language

    Who need a structure explicit enough to argue with.

Ask about the database

Early access begins with a conversation. Describe the words and languages your work needs to connect.

Publications

Working papers.

Research on how fragrance is described, developed and understood.

Internal review; not peer reviewed.

Edition and availability

English summaries of the final Italian edition, v1.0 (October 2026).

Full papers are available on request while public release is in progress.

Series
WP 01–35
Sources
Verified identifiers
Rights
Tracked per source
01–04

Structure and costs

Structural constraints of the domain, its cost structure, coordination costs and the functional coincidences that shape how fragrance work is organised.

Request WP 01–04
WP01Structural constraints of the olfactory domain

An odour can be described in a file, but experiencing it still requires matter. Starting from this distinction, the paper traces four layers of constraint: physical, systemic, socio-cognitive and regulatory-institutional. It separates recognising an odour from reproducing it and examines the strongest alternative to physical distribution: transmitting a recipe for local production. The argument applies to the current technical regime and specifies what would overturn it. It then compares four possible homes for shared vocabularies, protocols and formats. None emerges as the clear winner; ORIZOMIA remains a proposal for shared content and rules of structural impartiality, with its institutional home, funding and adoption still open.

WP02The cost structure of the olfactory domain

Every unit of fragrance requires molecules, energy and compliance; improving production cannot make those costs disappear. The paper distinguishes this material floor from the costs of ambiguous briefs, incompatible documents and repeated checks across the supply chain. It develops a cost taxonomy, examines the accounts of two fragrance composition houses and uses allergen labelling to show where individual efficiency depends on collective coordination. Its scope is the production of fragrant materials, with branded marketing and distribution considered to mark that boundary. Shared infrastructure could reduce informational friction, but the scale of potential savings remains unmeasured in this sector.

WP03Reducing coordination costs: a structural analysis

Ambiguous information can set off a costly sequence: conflicting interpretations, repeated exchanges, longer coordination and indirect expense. This analysis identifies where shared linguistic and measurement infrastructure might interrupt that sequence without changing physical or regulatory constraints. The paper examines brief development, compliance and audit in detail, alongside eight other areas of coordination. It also asks when standardisation costs more than it saves, which organisational alternatives deserve consideration and which creative ambiguities should remain open. Its contribution is a testable framework of mechanisms, indicators and adoption conditions, supported by indirect evidence; it does not estimate savings or demonstrate them empirically.

WP04When grammar becomes law: functional coincidence in technical-institutional systems

A technical vocabulary can acquire the force of a decision when a valid description becomes sufficient grounds for action. The paper calls this recurring pattern functional coincidence when it involves no autonomous deliberative step. It distinguishes semantic, epistemic and decision-making authority. Its practical test asks whether decision-makers retain a documented capacity to reject the descriptive content, rather than simply counting how often they follow it. European harmonised standards provide a documented case. Structural impartiality names the opposing arrangement: visible, autonomous deliberation and no preferential treatment based on position. The argument is conditional, limited to highly formalised systems, with ORIZOMIA considered as a design proposal rather than an operating institution.

05–11

Taxonomies and language

Olfactory taxonomies and their genealogy, fragrance as social practice, brief ambiguity and vocabulary as shared infrastructure.

Request WP 05–11
WP05The ORIZOMIA taxonomy: a descriptive, relational and governance system

A dictionary alone cannot connect the different jobs fragrance language performs. ORIZOMIA proposes an eight-level architecture linking the form and quality of experience with vocabulary, use, ambiguity, regulatory constraints, relations and panel calibration. At its centre, five axes describe experiential form separately from quality regions anchored to reference substances. Domain Profiles adapt the framework to particular settings, while bridge relations govern movement between them and shared governance controls revision. The paper sets out how the architecture, including its core axes, could be challenged and changed. Operational applications and AI integration remain proposals; the framework has yet to be applied to a real system.

WP06ORIZOMIA and the existing classification systems

What would another fragrance classification add to the systems already in use? The paper compares six established approaches, from commercial wheels and house vocabularies to IFRA categories, sensory profiles and ISO methods, across seven dimensions of coverage and governance. Each fulfils a different mandate. Within the comparison grid, none combines all the features proposed for ORIZOMIA, including explicit ambiguity management, codified uses and shared interoperability. Yet the grid partly reflects ORIZOMIA’s own architecture, and the sector’s need for that combination remains unproven. The proposed relationship is coexistence through mappings, with ORIZOMIA assessed as a design rather than a functioning competitor.

WP07Fragrance as social practice

Fragrance classifications carry assumptions about language, identity, bodies, ritual and the work behind materials and sensory panels. Drawing on linguistic, sociological and sensory research, the paper examines how these practices shape the categories that technical systems often leave unexplained. It keeps the claim bounded: cultural variation is especially relevant to words, uses and market categories, while evidence suggests substantial agreement across cultures on the pleasantness of individual molecules. Edwards’ replacement of ‘Oriental’ with ‘Amber’ illustrates how classification can make its assumptions explicit. The proposed documentation within ORIZOMIA remains untested, as does the prediction of more systematic descriptor disagreement between social groups than within them.

WP08A genealogy of perfume classifications

Today’s fragrance families have histories that their familiar names can conceal. This genealogy follows classifications from pre-industrial manuals through synthetic chemistry and named accords to regulatory and methodological institutions. It shows how commercial prototypes, stable ingredient palettes and practical mandates helped categories take hold, while distinguishing documented developments from historical hypotheses. ‘Chypre’, for example, predates its twentieth-century prototype; the suggested link between ‘Oriental’ and Rimmel’s earlier imagery remains inferential. Existing classifications retain validity within their purposes. The historical record does not yet establish which families capture perceptual structure and which chiefly stabilise names, leaving ORIZOMIA with an inheritance to examine rather than a natural order to reproduce.

WP09Pre-competitive coordination in the olfactory domain

Competing fragrance businesses already share professional references, but moving between their vocabularies can still require interpretation. The paper asks whether mappings and provenance rules could be maintained as a common resource without sharing proprietary product knowledge. It uses the knowledge-commons framework to examine how this shared resource could be established and maintained, drawing conditional lessons from neighbouring sensory fields and comparing possible institutional hosts. No institutional model clearly emerges as the best choice. Crucially, the coordination gap itself remains a hypothesis requiring primary research, separate from the question of whether ORIZOMIA could address it. The contribution is a set of criteria for testing the need and designing shared coordination alongside existing institutions and classifications.

WP10Irreducible ambiguity in fragrance briefs

A fragrance brief works partly because it leaves room for interpretation. The paper proposes four forms of indeterminacy—lexical, pragmatic, contextual and intentional—and distinguishes them by what would resolve each one: examples, questions about audience and use, background knowledge or work on samples. This gives perfumers a way to decide which uncertainties to reduce and which to preserve for creative development. Optional documentation in ORIZOMIA’s proposed use and ambiguity layers would record those choices. The examples are illustrative, and the typology awaits testing on real briefs. Its scope is Western perfumery with time for iterative development; other traditions and faster workflows would require recalibration.

WP11Formalised olfactory vocabulary as company infrastructure

The same fragrance moves through different languages in research, marketing, compliance, training and sales. The paper builds a business case for a company vocabulary that connects these registers while preserving their purposes and could reduce what it calls a ‘translation tax’. It examines benefits across functions alongside maintenance costs, language-model alternatives and the risks of integrating AI without a shared linguistic reference. The case draws on established research and analogies, with no primary evidence from perfumery and no guaranteed return. A proposed audit of clarification requests lets a house test the argument before investing. A sector reference such as ORIZOMIA would require separate funding, governance and adoption.

12–18

AI, regulation and limits

Structured olfactory coding for AI, regulatory compliance and machine assistance, contextual olfaction and the limits of AI in perfumery.

Request WP 12–18
WP12Olfactory AI as a structured-coding problem

An olfactory AI model can inherit disagreements embedded in its training labels. For technical leaders, this paper follows the chain from data coding and panel calibration to model performance and operational decisions. It proposes four necessary but insufficient conditions for industrial use: structured coding, calibrated panels, data governance and documented datasets and models. The Principal Odor Map provides an important limit: broad descriptions of single molecules can work with curated catalogue labels. The stronger case for coding concerns finer distinctions, house vocabularies, transfer between panels and mixtures. These remain working hypotheses; a proposed two-panel test could challenge the central claim, and ORIZOMIA is one possible framework rather than an established requirement.

WP13Regulatory compliance and AI in the fragrance industry

Bringing AI into fragrance compliance means working across rules with different purposes and responsibilities. This paper maps European cosmetics and allergen requirements, IFRA Standards and the AI Act, distinguishing legal duties, contractual obligations and prudent practice. It separates deterministic compliance calculations from tasks that may benefit from models, including document extraction and descriptive drafting. Its proposed framework connects system records to the cosmetic safety dossier through formal validation, records protected against alteration, qualified supervision and clear responsibility. A staged adoption programme begins with substance identification and data governance. The framework draws on analogies with pharmaceuticals and medical devices; its effectiveness remains to be tested against established manual workflows.

WP14Standards, regulations and institutional gaps

Olfactory standards already govern sensory methods, ingredient safety, environmental measurement and data management. The difficulty arises when a term or dataset moves between them. Drawing on official documents, this paper examines the work of connecting these systems that falls outside their individual mandates: shared meanings, context of use, recognised ambiguities, links between regulatory regimes and documentation for AI. Its comparison identifies five points of connection that no individual mandate covers through a framework explicitly shaped by the proposed ORIZOMIA architecture. ORIZOMIA is presented as a developing means of connecting existing systems. Whether these interfaces create sufficient demand for a shared infrastructure remains an open question, to be examined through documented cases and a pilot.

WP15Contextual olfaction

Beyond a controlled sensory profile, what still needs to be investigated when a fragrance is experienced in a classroom, clinic or workplace? Building on existing sensory standards, this paper proposes an exploratory framework for comparing laboratory assessments with experience in shared environments. It treats context as a variable to document and test, with domain profiles for education, healthcare and work. The proposed university pilot involves adults and uses the same stimuli and measures in a laboratory and classrooms. Classrooms are randomly allocated, with at least two per arm; a power calculation sets the required sample size. The framework offers a research programme rather than findings about an odour’s effects. The regulatory conditions for ambient diffusion must also be established before the pilot can begin.

WP16E = F(M, B, P, C): why olfactory experience is not additive

A molecule alone cannot account for what someone smells. E = F(M, B, P, C) proposes a relational account of olfactory experience, bringing together the material stimulus, biological constraints, a person’s prior psychological and memory profile, and context. Its central hypothesis is non-additivity: the effect of one component depends on the others. The paper translates these components into observable variables and nine conditional hypotheses, then explores perfume, flavour, and social and natural odours without collecting new data. A taxonomy of modelling failures links missing components to patterns in prediction errors. The resulting experimental programme specifies a decisive challenge: an additive model predicting new observations as well as a model with interactions chosen in advance.

WP17E = F(M, B, P, C) beyond the checklist

Listing the influences on smell does not specify how they combine. This paper formalises a non-additivity criterion for E = F(M, B, P, C): a mixed derivative, or an interaction contrast for discrete components, must be non-zero for a pair selected in advance on the basis of a documented mechanism. It examines how that criterion depends on measurement scale, including which ordinal interactions survive monotonic transformations. Four implementations are distinguished from Partial Information Decomposition, a diagnostic whose synergy does not establish non-additivity. The paper sets out identification conditions and a programme of empirical testing. Evidence exists for specific molecule–receptor genotype interactions; interactions across all four components await data collected together from the same participants.

WP18The architectural limits of AI in perfumery

Which limits of AI in perfumery can research reduce, and which require a different response? This paper separates constraints arising from current data and architectures, structural difficulties that would persist within realistically attainable datasets, and institutional arrangements that can change through decisions. It examines mixtures, individual variability, explanation, safety constraints and attribution, stating the assumptions behind each classification and, where possible, evidence that could change it. A further discussion treats effects on creativity, formula diversity and tacit knowledge as hypotheses. Four research priorities follow: public mixture datasets, independent validation, IFRA constraints within optimisation, and longitudinal assessment on skin. The classification is intended to guide research expectations rather than declare permanent technological boundaries.

19–26

Aesthetics and knowledge

The autographic paradox, beauty without provenance, categories without foundations and the olfactory lekton — what fragrance language actually refers to.

Request WP 19–26
WP19The autographic paradox of olfactory art

What makes a perfume the same work when its formula changes, and what makes its creation an authored act? This essay tests Goodman’s autographic–allographic distinction against reformulation, imitation and perfume’s performance on a body. It proposes an ephemeral, embodied category of work whose identity is established through shared olfactory comparison with a reference. Its discussion of AI separates a limiting case, where a generated formula is adopted unchanged, from documented practice in which a perfumer selects proposals. In the latter, authorship resides in judgement informed by compositional experience. These are philosophical arguments about identity and intention; favourable preference tests do not establish general equivalence with senior perfumers’ work.

WP20Without yesterday

A perfumer learns to judge a fragrance through its development on skin; generating more formulae cannot compress that experience. Drawing on Nietzsche, Anders and Connerton, this essay examines three conditions absent from statistical generation: selective forgetting that enables creative rupture, embodied competence acquired over time, and practices transmitted through shared physical presence. Its concern is the formation of future judgement. The thesis is conditional: if selecting generated proposals replaces learning to compose, present quality could remain stable while the competence sustaining future quality erodes. The essay reports no study of current perfumery training. It proposes interviews and comparative composition tasks that could test the mechanism and challenge its account.

WP21Without where

The origin of an ingredient and the origin of a formula are different kinds of connection. Through Peirce, Barthes, Walton and Connerton, this essay distinguishes the perfume’s liquid, which retains a causal link to the materials used, from the decisions that shape its recipe. A perfumer’s choices can depend on particular materials they have smelled; a model generating from formula collections reproduces patterns in recipes without inheriting that encounter. The proposed term ‘icon of indices’ names this design relation. The argument applies to generation without measured batch information and changes when such information, or a perfumer’s material judgement, enters the process. It proposes criteria for assessing a recipe that openly declares this absence.

WP22Free beauty, adherent beauty

Does an evocative brief make a perfume less beautiful, or change how its beauty is judged? Revisiting Roudnitska’s use of Kant, this essay argues that free and adherent beauty distinguish modes of judgement rather than fixed categories of perfume. Knowing the brief supplies a concept of what the fragrance should be; judging against that concept does not make its beauty inferior. The proposed practical test asks whether declaring the brief and evaluation criterion improves agreement between assessors. The account remains a philosophical argument with an untested prediction, while the suggested influence of Roudnitska on industry distinctions is explicitly conjectural. The olfactory sublime marks a further territory beyond this framework.

WP23Apollo in the laboratory

Professional perfumery turns immediate experience into names, families and scales. This essay reads the tension between experience and classification through Nietzsche’s Apollonian and Dionysian pair, as an analogy proposed by the author. Difficulty naming odours is located within Western olfactory culture, not attributed universally to the sense itself. The argument is that classification remains productive when it leaves room for experience beyond the existing repertoire. A genealogical inquiry then examines the preference for natural over synthetic, French over functional, and niche over mass-market perfumery. Their histories remain partly conjectural. The resulting questions concern training beyond classificatory precision and evaluation that recognises inherited hierarchies as conventions rather than intrinsic aesthetic facts.

WP24Three names for the same shelf

A perfume can be called ‘artistic’, ‘niche’ and ‘fine fragrance’, yet each label answers a different question. This essay separates application, market position and artistic status, following the terms through industry history, acquisitions, brand documents and theories of art and judgement. Fine fragrance identifies perfume for the skin; niche has shifted from restricted distribution towards production, audience or price; artistic claims a status that institutions may recognise in individual works. The essay argues that treating the labels as synonyms lets each borrow authority from the others. Documented cases illustrate the mechanism without measuring its prevalence. A proposed corpus analysis would test when the labels accumulate and whose interests that accumulation serves.

WP25Categories without foundations

Fragrance families such as chypre, fougère and woody organise an entire industry, but their usefulness does not establish that they describe natural kinds. This paper examines the similarities that hold a family together, the gradual boundaries that classification makes discrete, and the different meanings the same words carry across trades. Its central concern is how conventions are revised: established classifications do change, yet the decisions remain with small committees or individual authors, without public criteria or a forum for their users. The proposal is to retain these families as useful, revisable tools and give those who rely on them a role in revising them.

WP26The olfactory lekton

A smell involves a physical stimulus, a source and what we say it means. The olfactory lekton names this third layer: meaning sustained through shared use, distinct from both the molecule and an individual’s perception. The paper traces the gradual passage from physiological constraints to perceptual construction and inherited cultural meanings. Its distinctive concern is the fragility of the samples on which olfactory words are learned: they evaporate, change through reformulation or survive in archives beyond everyday use. It proposes comparisons that could test whether this instability changes classifications, and explains why preserving a sample alone cannot preserve the meaning a community gives it.

27–32

Training, ownership, price

How a nose is trained, who owns tacit expertise, the comparative anatomy of the ineffable and the economics of the unsaid in luxury fragrance.

Request WP 27–32
WP27The word on two levels

On a product label, a technical definition and a buyer’s understanding can give the same word different conditions of truth. This paper follows that divergence through alcohol-free, fragrance-free, hypoallergenic and eau de parfum, distinguishing anchors that are missing, negative or tied to a different property. Its sharpest example is unscented: smelling may correctly confirm the absence of an odour while giving no assurance about masking agents or allergens. Other gaps arise when a threshold has never been fixed or a historical formula can no longer be checked. The proposed taxonomy records each term’s technical and commercial uses separately, identifies whether a claim concerns perception or composition, and dates changes to its reference.

WP28The lexicon of ghosts

Musk, sandalwood and chypre retain their names while the materials those names identify change, sometimes sharing a label for decades. This paper treats such words as positions occupied by successive or overlapping referents. Changes of reference occur in many fields; perfumery’s distinctive problem is the missing record. No shared authority preserves distinct terms for the earlier meanings of family and material names. A faithful taxonomy would therefore record historical meanings alongside current ones, including their periods of coexistence. The cases illustrate this pattern without establishing its prevalence, and show how an undated vocabulary can pass obsolete associations into models trained on fragrance descriptions.

WP29Training a nose

Learning to make perfume requires a trained body as well as chemical knowledge. Perfumery schools have already formalised much of that learning, notably through Jean Carles’s method and their collections of reference materials. This paper asks what a school collection cannot provide on its own: references shared across institutions, calibration of individual differences, and comparison between cultural vocabularies. Drawing on literature and public programme descriptions, it proposes ways to teach these dimensions while retaining the tacit part of expertise. Wider access would depend on affordable teaching and public references. Without that infrastructure, proprietary digital tools could supply the vocabulary that becomes the profession’s default standard.

WP30Who owns the nose

Control over smell often resides in its surrounding infrastructure: secret formulas, computational maps and their datasets, raw-material supply chains, and accounts of origin. The paper examines this distribution through a comparison with colour, where a publicly governed reference system remains available beneath proprietary vocabularies. Olfaction has standards, classifications and open datasets, but lacks an equivalent common reference layer; no present notation predicts the perceived smell of a mixture. The proposed counterweight is a knowledge commons built from measurement protocols, declared provenance and vocabularies anchored to samples. The concentration of control is presented as a diagnosis to test, with indicators that could challenge it, rather than an established measurement of the sector.

WP31A comparative anatomy of the ineffable

Music, colour, wine and radiology offer different ways of making expert perception shareable. This paper distinguishes notation that specifies an intended perceptual result from vocabularies tied to common samples, which let experts describe and dispute what they perceive. Perfumery remains limited on both fronts. Predicting a mixture’s smell from its formula is still an empirical challenge; building shared descriptive references also depends on institutional choices and on accords that lack ready-made counterparts in nature. Canonical samples could support a more public vocabulary. They would reduce reliance on tacit knowledge without transferring the experience itself, and broaden access only if learning that vocabulary becomes affordable.

WP32The price of the unsaid

Luxury perfume can be compared for pleasure, longevity and projection, as enthusiast communities and makers of alternatives already demonstrate. Rarity, authorship and heritage are harder for buyers to verify, even when they are described fluently. This paper locates the price premium chiefly in those unverifiable attributes, rather than in an inability to talk about smell. It examines how restricted comparison can soften price competition, including the role of L’Oréal v Bellure, and considers whether independent consumer communities could build shared procedures for comparison. The argument assumes neither universal cost ratios nor uniform accuracy among alternatives; any effect of price on perfume pleasure remains a hypothesis requiring direct evidence.

33–35

Notation, drawing and interpretation

Three papers distinguish the experience of fragrance, the data recorded about it and the conventions used to draw a figure.

Request WP 33–35
WP33Four at a time

A fragrance pyramid may list many notes, while mixture research suggests that even trained people usually identify only three or four components at once. This paper asks whether that limit carries over to finished perfumes, distinguishing learned perceptual units from ingredients and from the contribution of unnamed materials to the whole. A study of 216 fragrance listings, sampled opportunistically and coded by one person, and a comparison across sources document descriptions rather than perception. From that distinction it develops criteria for comparable accounts: recognised units, separate composition data, timed protocols, identified assessors and measured agreement. Seven descriptive approaches are compared, and three testable predictions set out how the proposed transfer from laboratory mixtures could be assessed.

WP34Recording is not drawing

ORZ separates the data describing a perfume, the rule placing those data in time, and the figure generated from them. Its tables record ordinal intensity at ten fixed times, preserve the origin of each row and distinguish an unrecorded value from zero. Declared composition remains separate from perception; time-based derivations follow an explicitly named and versioned rule and are shown as calculated results. Making earlier plotting rules explicit exposed errors and discrepancies that their figures concealed. The notation checks structure rather than meaning. Two exercises using published descriptions explore possible disagreement without measuring smell, and the paper defines a protocol for the study of agreement between human assessors still needed to assess its use.

WP35What the column measures

A model learns what its training labels record; whether those labels predict perception must be measured. This paper examines that distinction in molecular catalogues and fragrance pyramids, where declarations, editorial choices, votes and calculations may occupy the same column. Panel validation is encouraging for individual molecules, but the reviewed literature offers no equivalent validation for perfume pyramids. Comparisons across public descriptions reveal disagreement without establishing whether its source is editorial choice or noisy perception. The proposal makes the target, each value’s provenance, timing protocol, assessor agreement and vocabulary anchored to reference samples explicit. Three testable predictions and a minimum panel dataset define what is needed to evaluate the approach.

+

Essays & articles

An eleven-essay series in Italian for a broader industry readership, alongside articles in English written for the international trade press.

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Connections across the research

155 connections on one map of 35 papers: 40 editorial connections approved by the author on 11 October 2026 and 115 documented relations across WP01–16.

Connections

Select a paper to see its connections, or browse the full list of connections below.

  • Structure & costs
  • Taxonomies & language
  • AI, regulation & limits
  • Aesthetics & knowledge
  • Training, ownership, price
  • Notation, drawing & interpretation

Each line connects two papers; it thickens with the number of documented relations between them, up to six. Select a paper to read its editorial connections and documented relations together.

Select a paper or follow a connection.Browse all 35 papers

Browse all 155 connections

155 of 155 connections shown.

  1. WP02 applies ideas from WP01

    Material constraints and production costs

    Rationale and sources

    WP02 translates the material constraints discussed in WP01 into a distinction between unavoidable resource costs and potentially reducible informational costs.

    Source passage: WP02 · Opening argument

    Source passage: WP01 · Section 7

  2. WP02 presupposes WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP02:a34 · WP01:a01

  3. WP02 presupposes WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP02:a66 · WP01:a38

  4. WP02 supports WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP02:a129 · WP01:a108

  5. WP02 supports WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP02:a117 · WP01:a69

  6. WP02 supports WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP02:a76 · WP01:a75

  7. WP02 supports WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP02:a86 · WP01:a81

  8. WP02 supports WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP02:a98 · WP01:a88

  9. WP02 supports WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP02:a114 · WP01:a100

  10. WP03 presupposes WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP03:a19 · WP01:a12

  11. WP03 applies WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP03:a122 · WP01:a112

  12. WP03 refines WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP03:a112 · WP01:a115

  13. WP03 supports WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP03:a94 · WP01:a113

  14. WP04 presupposes WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP04:a47 · WP01:a121

  15. WP05 is in tension with WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP05:a132 · WP01:a121

  16. WP07 refines WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP07:a36 · WP01:a44

  17. WP07 supports WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP07:a102 · WP01:a87

  18. WP07 refines WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP07:a105 · WP01:a40

  19. WP01 supports WP09

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP01:a89 · WP09:a63

  20. WP09 supports WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP09:a83 · WP01:a42

  21. WP10 refines WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP10:a127 · WP01:a87

  22. WP11 presupposes WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP11:a11 · WP01:a66

  23. WP14 presupposes WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP14:a134 · WP01:a121

  24. WP15 supports WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP15:a39 · WP01:a01

  25. WP16 presupposes WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP16:a25 · WP01:a56

  26. WP16 presupposes WP01

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP16:a137 · WP01:a03

  27. WP01 shares a question with WP31

    Transmitting description without transmitting experience

    Rationale and sources

    Both papers distinguish a transmissible description or recipe from the material conditions required for another olfactory experience.

    Source passage: WP01 · Section 7

    Source passage: WP31 · Section 3

  28. WP03 extends WP02

    Reducible coordination costs

    Rationale and sources

    WP03 develops the informational-cost side of WP02 into a conditional framework of coordination mechanisms, indicators and possible interventions.

    Source passage: WP03 · Opening argument

    Source passage: WP02 · Opening argument

  29. WP03 presupposes WP02

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP03:a105 · WP02:a03

  30. WP03 specialises WP02

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP03:a02 · WP02:a57

  31. WP05 refines WP02

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP05:a176 · WP02:a138

  32. WP06 supports WP02

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP06:a128 · WP02:a136

  33. WP09 extends WP02

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP09:a01 · WP02:a151

  34. WP09 extends WP02

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP09:a07 · WP02:a151

  35. WP09 applies WP02

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP09:a01 · WP02:a131

  36. WP11 is in tension with WP02

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP11:a67 · WP02:a90

  37. WP02 supports WP13

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP02:a44 · WP13:a14

  38. WP02 contrasts with WP32

    Production costs and luxury price premiums

    Rationale and sources

    WP02 models the productive cost structure; WP32 investigates unverifiable attributed qualities in retail valuation, a different explanatory level rather than a refutation of material costs.

    Source passage: WP02 · Opening argument

    Source passage: WP32 · Section 2

  39. WP05 applies WP03

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP05:a19 · WP03:a47

  40. WP06 supports WP03

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP06:a73 · WP03:a05

  41. WP09 applies ideas from WP03

    Shared provision of coordination infrastructure

    Rationale and sources

    WP09 considers shared references and their governance as a possible setting for the coordination mechanisms explored in WP03, without claiming measured sector benefits.

    Source passage: WP09 · Section 13

    Source passage: WP03 · Opening argument

  42. WP09 supports WP03

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP09:a77 · WP03:a99

  43. WP03 supports WP09

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP03:a118 · WP09:a19

  44. WP10 specialises WP03

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP10:a118 · WP03:a53

  45. WP11 applies ideas from WP03

    Vocabulary and company coordination

    Rationale and sources

    WP11 turns the coordination-cost question into a company-level business case for shared vocabulary, retaining maintenance costs and the need to test the case.

    Source passage: WP11 · Section 1

    Source passage: WP03 · Opening argument

  46. WP11 applies WP03

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP11:a12 · WP03:a02

  47. WP04 shares a question with WP05

    Authority in descriptive infrastructure

    Rationale and sources

    Both papers ask how a descriptive vocabulary acquires institutional force and how governance can keep its criteria open to challenge.

    Source passage: WP04 · Section 2

    Source passage: WP05 · Opening argument

  48. WP04 supports WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP04:a09 · WP05:a131

  49. WP04 refines WP06

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP04:a47 · WP06:a10

  50. WP07 supports WP04

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP07:a133 · WP04:a09

  51. WP09 presupposes WP04

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP09:a143 · WP04:a82

  52. WP09 presupposes WP04

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP09:a141 · WP04:a13

  53. WP11 applies WP04

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP11:a64 · WP04:a127

  54. WP04 supports WP14

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP04:a47 · WP14:a14

  55. WP04 contrasts with WP27

    Descriptions, decisions and consumer assurances

    Rationale and sources

    WP04 studies when a valid description becomes sufficient for a binding decision; WP27 studies a different boundary, where a perceptual answer does not establish a compositional assurance.

    Source passage: WP04 · Section 2

    Source passage: WP27 · Section 6

  56. WP05 contrasts with WP06

    Design proposal and existing mandates

    Rationale and sources

    WP05 proposes a layered architecture, while WP06 compares it with systems serving different mandates; the comparison does not establish that the proposal is superior or needed.

    Source passage: WP05 · Opening argument

    Source passage: WP06 · Section 1

  57. WP06 presupposes WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP06:a10 · WP05:a04

  58. WP06 presupposes WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP06:a126 · WP05:a125

  59. WP06 applies WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP06:a114 · WP05:a33

  60. WP06 refines WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP06:a85 · WP05:a58

  61. WP05 shares a question with WP07

    Social variation within a taxonomy

    Rationale and sources

    WP07 examines the social conditions behind descriptor variation, while WP05 proposes an architecture in which uses and contexts remain explicit.

    Source passage: WP05 · Opening argument

    Source passage: WP07 · Opening argument

  62. WP07 is in tension with WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP07:a131 · WP05:a210

  63. WP07 supports WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP07:a11 · WP05:a26

  64. WP07 applies WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP07:a114 · WP05:a141

  65. WP08 supports WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP08:a116 · WP05:a04

  66. WP08 supports WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP08:a15 · WP05:a134

  67. WP05 shares a question with WP10

    Useful ambiguity and explicit description

    Rationale and sources

    Both papers distinguish making language usable from eliminating every ambiguity; WP10 focuses on the creative brief and WP05 on a layered descriptive framework.

    Source passage: WP05 · Opening argument

    Source passage: WP10 · Section 1

  68. WP10 applies WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP10:a136 · WP05:a10

  69. WP10 applies WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP10:a134 · WP05:a56

  70. WP11 is in tension with WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP11:a157 · WP05:a200

  71. WP12 applies ideas from WP05

    Structured coding for olfactory AI

    Rationale and sources

    WP12 examines data coding and perceptual vocabulary as an AI use case for the descriptive structures proposed in WP05; this is not an assertion that the architecture has been deployed.

    Source passage: WP12 · Section 3

    Source passage: WP05 · Opening argument

  72. WP12 applies WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP12:a40 · WP05:a04

  73. WP14 applies WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP14:a134 · WP05:a04

  74. WP14 applies WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP14:a54 · WP05:a13

  75. WP14 supports WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP14:a95 · WP05:a52

  76. WP14 applies WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP14:a110 · WP05:a59

  77. WP14 applies WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP14:a67 · WP05:a54

  78. WP14 supports WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP14:a99 · WP05:a56

  79. WP15 applies ideas from WP05

    Domain profiles in contextual assessment

    Rationale and sources

    WP15 explicitly proposes domain profiles for contextual assessment within the architecture discussed in WP05; the living-lab programme remains proposed.

    Source passage: WP15 · Section 17

    Source passage: WP05 · Opening argument

  80. WP15 applies WP05

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP15:a145 · WP05:a138

  81. WP29 applies ideas from WP05

    Shared references and panel calibration in training

    Rationale and sources

    WP29 examines training across schools as a possible application setting for shared references and calibration, which are architectural concerns in WP05.

    Source passage: WP29 · Section 8

    Source passage: WP05 · Opening argument

  82. WP08 supports WP06

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP08:a72 · WP06:a96

  83. WP08 supports WP06

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP08:a94 · WP06:a126

  84. WP06 supports WP09

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP06:a74 · WP09:a07

  85. WP09 specialises WP06

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP09:a01 · WP06:a118

  86. WP11 applies WP06

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP11:a151 · WP06:a41

  87. WP14 extends WP06

    Mandates and uncovered interfaces

    Rationale and sources

    WP14 expands the comparison of existing mandates into possible interfaces between standards and regulatory systems, while leaving demand for the proposed infrastructure open.

    Source passage: WP14 · Opening argument

    Source passage: WP06 · Section 1

  88. WP14 extends WP06

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP14:a88 · WP06:a03

  89. WP14 presupposes WP06

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP14:a14 · WP06:a153

  90. WP14 supports WP06

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP14:a06 · WP06:a10

  91. WP15 specialises WP06

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP15:a11 · WP06:a08

  92. WP08 extends WP07

    The historical formation of classifications

    Rationale and sources

    WP08 develops a historical account of classifications that complements WP07’s account of their social and cultural presuppositions.

    Source passage: WP08 · Section 12

    Source passage: WP07 · Opening argument

  93. WP08 supports WP07

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP08:a72 · WP07:a02

  94. WP10 presupposes WP07

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP10:a59 · WP07:a41

  95. WP12 supports WP07

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP12:a72 · WP07:a10

  96. WP15 supports WP07

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP15:a16 · WP07:a62

  97. WP09 presupposes WP08

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP09:a125 · WP08:a109

  98. WP10 applies WP08

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP10:a134 · WP08:a130

  99. WP08 is in tension with WP12

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP08:a30 · WP12:a50

  100. WP14 presupposes WP08

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP14:a35 · WP08:a87

  101. WP14 presupposes WP08

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP14:a29 · WP08:a110

  102. WP15 is in tension with WP08

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP15:a06 · WP08:a36

  103. WP08 is in tension with WP15

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP08:a36 · WP15:a48

  104. WP25 extends WP08

    Opening the revision of historical categories

    Rationale and sources

    WP25 develops the revision and participation question raised by treating classifications as historical choices rather than natural orders.

    Source passage: WP25 · Section 5

    Source passage: WP08 · Section 12

  105. WP28 extends WP08

    Historical meanings of fragrance names

    Rationale and sources

    WP28 develops an editorial continuation of WP08’s genealogy: it asks how changing referents and periods of coexistence should be recorded, rather than claiming a documented derivation from that paper.

    Source passage: WP28 · Section 5

    Source passage: WP08 · Section 12

  106. WP10 supports WP09

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP10:a115 · WP09:a132

  107. WP12 supports WP09

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP12:a149 · WP09:a160

  108. WP14 applies WP09

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP14:a98 · WP09:a132

  109. WP30 extends WP09

    Governance against enclosure of shared references

    Rationale and sources

    WP30 develops the knowledge-commons question in WP09 through the problem of proprietary control over olfactory reference infrastructure.

    Source passage: WP30 · Section 7

    Source passage: WP09 · Section 13

  110. WP10 contrasts with WP11

    Creative openness and removable translation costs

    Rationale and sources

    WP10 explains why some brief ambiguity should remain open, while WP11 isolates vocabulary-related clarification costs that a company could test before investing.

    Source passage: WP10 · Section 1

    Source passage: WP11 · Section 1

  111. WP10 applies WP14

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP10:a136 · WP14:a106

  112. WP15 extends WP10

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP15:a36 · WP10:a134

  113. WP15 supports WP10

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP15:a26 · WP10:a26

  114. WP12 supports WP11

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP12:a133 · WP11:a02

  115. WP12 supports WP11

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP12:a60 · WP11:a95

  116. WP11 supports WP12

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP11:a98 · WP12:a10

  117. WP13 presupposes WP11

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP13:a29 · WP11:a17

  118. WP13 presupposes WP11

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP13:a29 · WP11:a98

  119. WP14 supports WP11

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP14:a109 · WP11:a12

  120. WP13 applies ideas from WP12

    Data governance in compliance workflows

    Rationale and sources

    WP13 considers upstream document extraction and qualified validation as a deployment setting for the data-governance concerns developed in WP12.

    Source passage: WP13 · Section 3

    Source passage: WP12 · Section 3

  121. WP13 applies WP12

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP13:a139 · WP12:a01

  122. WP13 presupposes WP12

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP13:a24 · WP12:a43

  123. WP13 presupposes WP12

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP13:a109 · WP12:a114

  124. WP14 applies WP12

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP14:a75 · WP12:a21

  125. WP14 extends WP12

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP14:a115 · WP12:a146

  126. WP12 extends WP15

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP12:a83 · WP15:a10

  127. WP12 contrasts with WP18

    Coding conditions and structural AI limits

    Rationale and sources

    WP12 examines tasks in which structured coding may improve AI use, while WP18 separates such reducible difficulties from structural and epistemic limits.

    Source passage: WP12 · Section 3

    Source passage: WP18 · Opening argument

  128. WP35 extends WP12

    What an olfactory training label measures

    Rationale and sources

    WP35 develops the label-provenance and validation problem in WP12, distinguishing compiled declarations from panel measurements.

    Source passage: WP35 · Section 5

    Source passage: WP12 · Section 3

  129. WP13 shares a question with WP14

    Interfaces between regulatory and technical mandates

    Rationale and sources

    Both papers examine distinct rules and standards whose meanings and responsibilities must be connected without treating their mandates as interchangeable.

    Source passage: WP13 · Section 3

    Source passage: WP14 · Opening argument

  130. WP14 presupposes WP13

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP14:a61 · WP13:a134

  131. WP13 supports WP14

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP13:a151 · WP14:a61

  132. WP13 supports WP14

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP13:a11 · WP14:a35

  133. WP13 refines WP14

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP13:a151 · WP14:a59

  134. WP15 supports WP14

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP15:a08 · WP14:a118

  135. WP15 shares a question with WP16

    Context as part of olfactory experience

    Rationale and sources

    WP15 proposes comparing controlled and in-context assessments, while WP16 treats context as a component of a relational account of experience.

    Source passage: WP15 · Section 17

    Source passage: WP16 · Section 1

  136. WP16 presupposes WP15

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP16:a63 · WP15:a02

  137. WP15 supports WP16

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP15:a02 · WP16:a25

  138. WP15 supports WP16

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP15:a64 · WP16:a140

  139. WP15 supports WP16

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP15:a58 · WP16:a139

  140. WP15 supports WP16

    Source assertions

    Source assertions: WP15:a63 · WP16:a78

  141. WP17 extends WP16

    A testable non-additivity criterion

    Rationale and sources

    WP17 specifies a mathematical and measurement-sensitive criterion for the relational account of experience proposed in WP16.

    Source passage: WP17 · Section 2

    Source passage: WP16 · Section 1

  142. WP16 shares a question with WP34

    Who, when and under what conditions a fragrance is assessed

    Rationale and sources

    WP16 models the material, biological, psychological and contextual conditions of experience; WP34 specifies who assessed a fragrance, when and under which declared protocol, without claiming to model all those determinants.

    Source passage: WP16 · Section 1

    Source passage: WP34 · Section 1

  143. WP19 shares a question with WP20

    Embodied authorship and learned judgement

    Rationale and sources

    WP19 examines authored judgement and the identity of the work, while WP20 asks how the competence sustaining judgement is learned and transmitted.

    Source passage: WP19 · Opening argument

    Source passage: WP20 · Section 5

  144. WP19 shares a question with WP21

    Formula, material encounter and authorship

    Rationale and sources

    Both papers separate a generated recipe from the material encounter and judgement involved in authorship, using different philosophical frameworks.

    Source passage: WP19 · Opening argument

    Source passage: WP21 · Section 3

  145. WP20 shares a question with WP29

    How olfactory competence is acquired

    Rationale and sources

    Both papers emphasise the time and bodily practice required to learn judgement, while asking how formal tools can support rather than replace that learning.

    Source passage: WP20 · Section 5

    Source passage: WP29 · Section 8

  146. WP22 shares a question with WP23

    Criteria behind aesthetic judgement

    Rationale and sources

    Both papers examine the criteria and inherited categories through which a fragrance is judged, without reducing sensory quality to market conventions.

    Source passage: WP22 · Section 2

    Source passage: WP23 · Section 4

  147. WP22 shares a question with WP24

    Judgement, artistic status and market categories

    Rationale and sources

    Both papers distinguish questions that fragrance discourse often conflates: the criterion of aesthetic judgement and the status or market position attributed to a perfume.

    Source passage: WP22 · Section 2

    Source passage: WP24 · Opening argument

  148. WP23 shares a question with WP25

    Classification as a revisable convention

    Rationale and sources

    Both papers examine classifications as useful practices whose conventions should not be mistaken for intrinsic properties of the objects.

    Source passage: WP23 · Section 4

    Source passage: WP25 · Section 5

  149. WP24 shares a question with WP32

    The authority carried by market language

    Rationale and sources

    WP24 examines how category names borrow status from one another, while WP32 examines attributes whose market value exceeds what buyers can verify.

    Source passage: WP24 · Opening argument

    Source passage: WP32 · Section 2

  150. WP26 shares a question with WP28

    Meanings that depend on changing references

    Rationale and sources

    Both papers examine how olfactory meaning persists while samples or referents change, and why a current definition alone cannot preserve that history.

    Source passage: WP26 · Section 6

    Source passage: WP28 · Section 5

  151. WP26 shares a question with WP31

    The durability of sample-anchored vocabulary

    Rationale and sources

    WP26 examines fragile reference samples and shared meaning, while WP31 asks what infrastructure makes sample-anchored descriptions usable across practitioners.

    Source passage: WP26 · Section 6

    Source passage: WP31 · Section 3

  152. WP27 shares a question with WP33

    Separating composition from perceived experience

    Rationale and sources

    Both papers distinguish what a product contains or declares from what someone can perceive, although one studies label claims and the other fragrance descriptions.

    Source passage: WP27 · Section 6

    Source passage: WP33 · Section 3

  153. WP29 shares a question with WP31

    Making trained perception shareable

    Rationale and sources

    Both papers distinguish learning through physical samples from the provision of references that let practitioners describe and compare their experience.

    Source passage: WP29 · Section 8

    Source passage: WP31 · Section 3

  154. WP34 extends WP33

    A notation for comparable fragrance descriptions

    Rationale and sources

    WP34 proposes tables, provenance and versioned plotting rules as a formal response to the descriptive requirements developed in WP33.

    Source passage: WP34 · Opening argument

    Source passage: WP33 · Section 3

  155. WP34 shares a question with WP35

    Structural records and perceptual validation

    Rationale and sources

    WP34 checks the structure of records, while WP35 asks what labels measure and whether they predict perception; the link concerns a shared validation problem, not a demonstrated development of ORZ.

    Source passage: WP34 · Opening argument

    Source passage: WP35 · Opening argument

Documented snapshot in text

Historical documented snapshot: all four figures cover working papers 01–16.

  • 2,559Assertions anchored to the source text
  • 207Concepts in the registry
  • 402Sources cited, in 591 citations
  • 64Documented paper pairs, carrying 115 recorded relations
  1. WP01 — Structural constraints of the olfactory domain. Group: Structure & costs.

    • WP02 — presupposes ×2 · supports ×6 (8 recorded relations).
    • WP03 — presupposes · applies · refines · supports (4 recorded relations).
    • WP04 — presupposes (1 recorded relation).
    • WP05 — challenges (1 recorded relation).
    • WP07 — refines ×2 · supports (3 recorded relations).
    • WP09 — supports ×2 (2 recorded relations).
    • WP10 — refines (1 recorded relation).
    • WP11 — presupposes (1 recorded relation).
    • WP14 — presupposes (1 recorded relation).
    • WP15 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP16 — presupposes ×2 (2 recorded relations).
  2. WP02 — The cost structure of the olfactory domain. Group: Structure & costs.

    • WP01 — presupposes ×2 · supports ×6 (8 recorded relations).
    • WP03 — presupposes · specialises (2 recorded relations).
    • WP05 — refines (1 recorded relation).
    • WP06 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP09 — extends ×2 · applies (3 recorded relations).
    • WP11 — challenges (1 recorded relation).
    • WP13 — supports (1 recorded relation).
  3. WP03 — Reducing coordination costs: a structural analysis. Group: Structure & costs.

    • WP01 — presupposes · applies · refines · supports (4 recorded relations).
    • WP02 — presupposes · specialises (2 recorded relations).
    • WP05 — applies (1 recorded relation).
    • WP06 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP09 — supports ×2 (2 recorded relations).
    • WP10 — specialises (1 recorded relation).
    • WP11 — applies (1 recorded relation).
  4. WP04 — When grammar becomes law: functional coincidence in technical-institutional systems. Group: Structure & costs.

    • WP01 — presupposes (1 recorded relation).
    • WP05 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP06 — refines (1 recorded relation).
    • WP07 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP09 — presupposes ×2 (2 recorded relations).
    • WP11 — applies (1 recorded relation).
    • WP14 — supports (1 recorded relation).
  5. WP05 — The ORIZOMIA taxonomy: a descriptive, relational and governance system. Group: Taxonomies & language.

    • WP01 — challenges (1 recorded relation).
    • WP02 — refines (1 recorded relation).
    • WP03 — applies (1 recorded relation).
    • WP04 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP06 — presupposes ×2 · applies · refines (4 recorded relations).
    • WP07 — applies · supports · challenges (3 recorded relations).
    • WP08 — supports ×2 (2 recorded relations).
    • WP10 — applies ×2 (2 recorded relations).
    • WP11 — challenges (1 recorded relation).
    • WP12 — applies (1 recorded relation).
    • WP14 — applies ×4 · supports ×2 (6 recorded relations).
    • WP15 — applies (1 recorded relation).
  6. WP06 — ORIZOMIA and the existing classification systems. Group: Taxonomies & language.

    • WP02 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP03 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP04 — refines (1 recorded relation).
    • WP05 — presupposes ×2 · applies · refines (4 recorded relations).
    • WP08 — supports ×2 (2 recorded relations).
    • WP09 — specialises · supports (2 recorded relations).
    • WP11 — applies (1 recorded relation).
    • WP14 — presupposes · extends · supports (3 recorded relations).
    • WP15 — specialises (1 recorded relation).
  7. WP07 — Fragrance as social practice. Group: Taxonomies & language.

    • WP01 — refines ×2 · supports (3 recorded relations).
    • WP04 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP05 — applies · supports · challenges (3 recorded relations).
    • WP08 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP10 — presupposes (1 recorded relation).
    • WP12 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP15 — supports (1 recorded relation).
  8. WP08 — A genealogy of perfume classifications. Group: Taxonomies & language.

    • WP05 — supports ×2 (2 recorded relations).
    • WP06 — supports ×2 (2 recorded relations).
    • WP07 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP09 — presupposes (1 recorded relation).
    • WP10 — applies (1 recorded relation).
    • WP12 — challenges (1 recorded relation).
    • WP14 — presupposes ×2 (2 recorded relations).
    • WP15 — challenges ×2 (2 recorded relations).
  9. WP09 — Pre-competitive coordination in the olfactory domain. Group: Taxonomies & language.

    • WP01 — supports ×2 (2 recorded relations).
    • WP02 — extends ×2 · applies (3 recorded relations).
    • WP03 — supports ×2 (2 recorded relations).
    • WP04 — presupposes ×2 (2 recorded relations).
    • WP06 — specialises · supports (2 recorded relations).
    • WP08 — presupposes (1 recorded relation).
    • WP10 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP12 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP14 — applies (1 recorded relation).
  10. WP10 — Irreducible ambiguity in fragrance briefs. Group: Taxonomies & language.

    • WP01 — refines (1 recorded relation).
    • WP03 — specialises (1 recorded relation).
    • WP05 — applies ×2 (2 recorded relations).
    • WP07 — presupposes (1 recorded relation).
    • WP08 — applies (1 recorded relation).
    • WP09 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP14 — applies (1 recorded relation).
    • WP15 — extends · supports (2 recorded relations).
  11. WP11 — Formalised olfactory vocabulary as company infrastructure. Group: Taxonomies & language.

    • WP01 — presupposes (1 recorded relation).
    • WP02 — challenges (1 recorded relation).
    • WP03 — applies (1 recorded relation).
    • WP04 — applies (1 recorded relation).
    • WP05 — challenges (1 recorded relation).
    • WP06 — applies (1 recorded relation).
    • WP12 — supports ×3 (3 recorded relations).
    • WP13 — presupposes ×2 (2 recorded relations).
    • WP14 — supports (1 recorded relation).
  12. WP12 — Olfactory AI as a structured-coding problem. Group: AI, regulation & limits.

    • WP05 — applies (1 recorded relation).
    • WP07 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP08 — challenges (1 recorded relation).
    • WP09 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP11 — supports ×3 (3 recorded relations).
    • WP13 — presupposes ×2 · applies (3 recorded relations).
    • WP14 — extends · applies (2 recorded relations).
    • WP15 — extends (1 recorded relation).
  13. WP13 — Regulatory compliance and AI in the fragrance industry. Group: AI, regulation & limits.

    • WP02 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP11 — presupposes ×2 (2 recorded relations).
    • WP12 — presupposes ×2 · applies (3 recorded relations).
    • WP14 — presupposes · refines · supports ×2 (4 recorded relations).
  14. WP14 — Standards, regulations and institutional gaps. Group: AI, regulation & limits.

    • WP01 — presupposes (1 recorded relation).
    • WP04 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP05 — applies ×4 · supports ×2 (6 recorded relations).
    • WP06 — presupposes · extends · supports (3 recorded relations).
    • WP08 — presupposes ×2 (2 recorded relations).
    • WP09 — applies (1 recorded relation).
    • WP10 — applies (1 recorded relation).
    • WP11 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP12 — extends · applies (2 recorded relations).
    • WP13 — presupposes · refines · supports ×2 (4 recorded relations).
    • WP15 — supports (1 recorded relation).
  15. WP15 — Contextual olfaction. Group: AI, regulation & limits.

    • WP01 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP05 — applies (1 recorded relation).
    • WP06 — specialises (1 recorded relation).
    • WP07 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP08 — challenges ×2 (2 recorded relations).
    • WP10 — extends · supports (2 recorded relations).
    • WP12 — extends (1 recorded relation).
    • WP14 — supports (1 recorded relation).
    • WP16 — presupposes · supports ×4 (5 recorded relations).
  16. WP16 — E = F(M, B, P, C): why olfactory experience is not additive. Group: AI, regulation & limits.

    • WP01 — presupposes ×2 (2 recorded relations).
    • WP15 — presupposes · supports ×4 (5 recorded relations).
  17. WP17 — E = F(M, B, P, C) beyond the checklist. Group: AI, regulation & limits. No formalised relations yet.

  18. WP18 — The architectural limits of AI in perfumery. Group: AI, regulation & limits. No formalised relations yet.

  19. WP19 — The autographic paradox of olfactory art. Group: Aesthetics & knowledge. No formalised relations yet.

  20. WP20 — Without yesterday. Group: Aesthetics & knowledge. No formalised relations yet.

  21. WP21 — Without where. Group: Aesthetics & knowledge. No formalised relations yet.

  22. WP22 — Free beauty, adherent beauty. Group: Aesthetics & knowledge. No formalised relations yet.

  23. WP23 — Apollo in the laboratory. Group: Aesthetics & knowledge. No formalised relations yet.

  24. WP24 — Three names for the same shelf. Group: Aesthetics & knowledge. No formalised relations yet.

  25. WP25 — Categories without foundations. Group: Aesthetics & knowledge. No formalised relations yet.

  26. WP26 — The olfactory lekton. Group: Aesthetics & knowledge. No formalised relations yet.

  27. WP27 — The word on two levels. Group: Training, ownership, price. No formalised relations yet.

  28. WP28 — The lexicon of ghosts. Group: Training, ownership, price. No formalised relations yet.

  29. WP29 — Training a nose. Group: Training, ownership, price. No formalised relations yet.

  30. WP30 — Who owns the nose. Group: Training, ownership, price. No formalised relations yet.

  31. WP31 — A comparative anatomy of the ineffable. Group: Training, ownership, price. No formalised relations yet.

  32. WP32 — The price of the unsaid. Group: Training, ownership, price. No formalised relations yet.

  33. WP33 — Four at a time. Group: WP33–35 · not yet mapped. No formalised relations yet.

  34. WP34 — Recording is not drawing. Group: WP33–35 · not yet mapped. No formalised relations yet.

  35. WP35 — What the column measures. Group: WP33–35 · not yet mapped. No formalised relations yet.

Request a paper.

Full papers are available on request — tell us which strand interests you.

contact@orizomia.com

Advisory

A clear account of what your documents show.

Four services examine documents that fragrance and cosmetics companies already hold. Each addresses a defined question and produces findings traceable to the source material. We agree scope and price with you before work begins.

CPA stands for Cycle Project Analysis. In our engagements we do not assess your people, issue compliance verdicts, or build or run your software.

Documents & records

Each audit starts with a clearly scoped review before any wider work.

Allergen readiness audit

2–4 weeksfixed after scoping

For a review of allergen declarations and supplier documentation against Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 and the applicable IFRA Standards.

The extraction engine links every value to its source passage; a person verifies the findings.

The result lists findings with their documents and passages, and identifies documents that are missing, expired or unreadable.

Discuss an allergen readiness audit with us

Record structure audit

3–6 weeksfixed after scoping

For an examination of the record itself, rather than a development cycle or regulatory requirements.

The audit identifies what is recorded, what is missing, where the same thing has three names and which parts your systems cannot currently read.

The result includes a target schema and a list of gaps. Together, they provide a basis for defining the scope of record restructuring and specifying a layer to connect the record to your systems.

Discuss a record structure audit with us

Development cycles

CPA begins with a screening before a pilot.

CPA Screening

~1 week€1,500, fixed

For a first measurement of one development cycle, using existing documents under NDA.

The screening counts structural events and reopenings, and shows how the load is distributed across functions.

The result is a technical report and an executive summary, with two indices for documentary expansion and the informal load of decisions taken outside the documents. The two indices are never added together.

Discuss a CPA Screening with us

CPA Pilot

3–4 weeksfrom €5,000, fixed after scoping

For a full measurement of one development cycle.

The pilot identifies the time and money associated with repeated versions, reopened decisions and untracked handovers.

The result is a technical report and an executive summary.

Discuss a CPA Pilot with us

If the measurements do not justify the next step, we say so in the report.

Terms of engagement
  1. 01

    Scope and price

    We agree scope and price before the work starts, itemised by hours, people and tools, and we charge no success fees. We sign a mutual NDA before any document exchange.

  2. 02

    Your documents

    We run screenings with our own tools and review them manually. We process your documents in a segregated environment, never use them to train models, and return or delete them when the engagement ends.

  3. 03

    What we retain

    We retain the measurements — event counts and index values, without your name — as a reference for subsequent projects. You can opt out in writing.

  4. 04

    Contested findings

    If you contest a finding, we record your objection and respond within three working days. We never rewrite the frozen dataset after the fact; changes go into the next version of the method.

  5. 05

    No contingent pricing

    The measurement is a standalone service. Its price does not change if you commission the work it recommends. Its findings do not depend on that decision.

Discuss an engagement with us.

Describe the question you need to address. We can discuss which of the four services fits the work.

contact@orizomia.com

Contact

Tell us what you are working on.

Ask about a system, request a paper or describe a problem with your documents.

We reply within two working days.

What to include

For a paper request, include its WP number or title. For a question about a system, name the system and what you would like to know.

For an engagement enquiry, these details help us understand the work:

  1. Your role, and the company or project you represent.
  2. Which documents you handle — safety data sheets, allergen declarations, IFRA certificates, briefs.
  3. The deadline you are facing, if there is one.

We treat everything you share as confidential and sign a mutual NDA before any document exchange.

Founder
Daniele Saro
Based in
Milan, Italy
LinkedIn
daniele-saro

ORIZOMIA was founded and is led by Daniele Saro, an independent researcher and consultant in data and AI for perfumery and beauty.

He trained in fragrance evaluation at the Italian Perfumery Institute and came to the sector from finance, with degrees in financial economics (Trieste) and philosophy (Vita-Salute San Raffaele).

Privacy

Privacy notice.

This notice describes hosting logs, email correspondence and documents shared for engagements.

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